Last December I decided that my next boat project would be a model because I am running out of room for boats on trailers, I’ve built six and still have five of them. Links to blogs describing these boats are listed below on the right.

For some time I have been interested in the long deep keel sailing boats epitomised by the Pilot Cutters from the southwest of England. While browsing these boats I came across the first of Leo Goolden's Tally Ho videos and have been watching them since with ever increasing interest.

My interest in Tally Ho led me to choose her for the model. This will be a working radio controlled model, not a display model.

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Sunday, 17 March 2019

Slow Progress!

Progress seems to have been slow but there has been some. I found a suitable propeller and shaft and after some head scratching drilled a hole through the stern post and installed the brass tube making sure the space between the metal and wood was completely filled with epoxy. Here's what it looks like  from astern - Captain Pugwash is a bit on the short side, he's only 5 foot tall including his box!


The propeller is 60 mm diameter which scales out to 24" which is about the size I measure off the plans and looks about the size of the prop that Leo pulled out of the boat in video 7 but it isn't as heavy!

I cleaned up the inside of the hull using sanding disks on a Dremel. It is still uneven but the blobs of epoxy are gone. It now has a coat of epoxy with grey primer over that and looks quite respectable. No one is going to see it when the model is finished!

The outside of the hull was more of a challenge as it has to have a smooth surface. Sanding removed the high spots in the planking and an application of epoxy "bog" (white) filled in the low spots. Sanding and more bog (grey) and more sanding gave it a surface that I'm happy with. It looks a mess at the moment but that will be fixed soon.


The drawing show the stern post cutaway to give clearance for the prop. Leo's videos show that the prop was held away from the stern post by a wooden spacer block. I've chosen to follow the plans with cutouts in both stern post and rudder. Here's what it looks like (I need better hinges!).


I've made a mold for casting the lead keel using the wooden pattern made previously. I used Plaster of Paris because it is easy to work with and readily available. It is taking a long time to dry out (still feels damp after 2 days but in Brisbane's high humidity it is taking longer than expected). If it doesn't dry out in another day or so I will put it in my steam box with a hair dryer - it is too big for the kitchen oven. It has to be dry because moisture and molten lead are a bad combination.


I've begun thinking about how I can control the sails with radio control. Obviously by using servos but just how to do this is not so obvious. The main sheet needs 800 mm of travel as the boom moves from the centre line to just touching the shrouds. There are several ways of handling the main sheet using sail winch servos but getting the 800 mm travel is a problem. The foresails provide a different problem because there are two sails (working foresail and number 2 jib) that need  different amounts of sheet travel using one servo also one sheet has to be let out so the other can be taken in. Of course all of this has been done before but not by me and I am having trouble finding the "how to" information.

The reason for sorting out the sheeting and servo arrangements is that I want to get them installed and working before I start putting the deck on. Once the deck is on access to the inside of the hull will be more difficult unless I can find some tiny assistants.

Next steps are: cast and fit the keel, fibre glass the outside of the hull and put some primer on it, continue working on the sail control.

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